02.28Basic DIY Book Binding Demonstration
http://www.DIYBookbinding.com
Do-it-yourselfer demonstrates how to make a glue bound paper back book. Includes a look at a home made bookbinding jig.
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Thank you this is wonderful!
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
All the books I make are of size A5 (half an A4). So what I did was I got some plywood scrap just slightly larger than A5. They are covered with formica, so they are nice and smooth. I place my signatures or pages between these sheets, and press them together with a C-clamp. If you have woodworking tools you can make more sophisticated bookbinding tools easily, but I’ve bound several dozen books so far with the simplest tools.
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
A professional quality binder can be purchased on eBay for about $1500 US, but I just don’t have the need or the space for one of those.
I don’t even know the dimensions of the Jig I built. I used scrap lumber and traced a piece of paper folded to the size of a bound book to mark off where the backstops go. Just make sure that you allow the spine to stick out about 1/8″ so the glue doesn’t stick to the jig.
Visit the blog. There is an article about the jig with lots of pictures.
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
Welcome sir was blown away by such dedication and i stand by my comments one question i would like to ask you how would you feel about making a plan of your press,dimensions and all ?ive just come into the world of book binding and seeing whats on offer in the UK well even highwaymen had the decency to wear a mask when robbing folk ,im on about the prices charged for a factory made press`s so if ever you decide to make the dimensions known you will be making one Brit happy cheers!!!!!!
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
Nothing fancy, just a simple 5 minute epoxy I got from the hardware store. The 2 part liquid kind that you mix together and apply.
It’s probably NOT the best option in the long run, but it works fast and I’ve not had any problems with books I bound with it.
If you are producing multiple volumes of your book, the fast drying times make this kind of glue impractical.
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
Thank you. I know how hard it is to find good information on this subject if you just want to make simple glue bound books.
I’ll be putting together some DVDs on this subject in the future, visit my website if you want to keep up with that (and the book I’m working on as well.)
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
I was wondering what kind of epoxy you used?
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
Amazing well filmed well spoken if you need to learn something i found out find so Americans who make the effort to carry on hand skills like this take it from me here in the UK trying to find info like this is like looking for Hens teeth
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
Thank you
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
P.S. The other thing I score is the pages themselves. On some projects I print 4 pages top a sheet of paper (front and back) in booklet form. I fold the pages and stack them to create the book block.
I find this easier than cutting all the pages in half before binding and the results I get are very good.
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
The cleanest cover will come from scoring both the front and back folds before binding. The trick there is accurately gauging the thickness of the cover.
Get an inexpensive metal caliper measuring tool. Use it to accurately measure the thickness of your book block and then use a bone folder and a ruler or your scoring board to crease the inside of the spine.
Fold the cover completely before putting everything back together and gluing the spine.
This should give you a professional result.
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
Besides the cover, what else would be scored by a score board? gotoguyenterprises, you were right when you thought I meant score the cover, but I also meant specifically with a score board. That would be difficult using your method since you say that you score the back of the book after the glue has set. Therefore, please offer me advice on how to score a book when I want to sell it, with as few imperfections on the cover as possible.
Thank you for the time you take to respond.
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
I assume you mean for scoring the cover.
My process is to score the front cover fold before binding and the back after the glue has set. That way, if there are any imperfections, they are on the back of the book where they will be less noticeable.
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
I’m in contact with a company to make them, but nothing firm yet. A lot depends on demand because the profit margins are low.
It is extremely easy to build a jig. I used scrap lumber. Maybe one day I’ll get around to drawing up some blueprints.
Visit my site and join the update list. That’s the first place I’ll announce it when I have plans available.
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
Does it help to use a score board and then touch it up as you go along?
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
Stitching is way better than glue for durability and flexibility – it’s just VERY time consuming.
My glued books hold up very well with use. If I was making something as an art object, I would stitch.
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
That was amazing. I like the contraption you made to bind the books. I am looking for a company that would like to do that for me.
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
A very nice video.
I am thinking about making some books, and would like to hear your input on glue binding VS stitching?
Is gluing the spine just as effective, strong and flexible as stitching? How does it compare basically?
Again, cool vid!!
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
ken58patjoe,
Glad you like this little tutorial.
Personally, I don’t worry about grain direction and just use standard printer paper for my books. The results are very good – but not perfect.
The easiest way I know to get paper with the proper grain direction is to get tabloid size paper (11 x 17) and cut it down to you final page size (5.5 x 8.5).
I don’t have a good source for PUR glues right now. But, it is popular in the printing industry. 3M makes a line of glue called Scotch-Weld.
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
Thank you for the clear concise lesson. Do I have to worry about the grain direction of the paper when assembling the boo?k. Also, you mention PUR type glue as an alternative. Where can I get PUR typr glue—other than “Gorilla” glue?
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
Mosdead12345,
I built the binding jig out of a few bits of scrap lumber and a couple bolts and wing-nuts. It’s nothing fancy.
You can get everything from Home Depot for about $15 if you don’t want to scrounge in the garage for parts.
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
were do u get that tool to hold the pages?
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
Darkblinds,
I am guessing that you mean a color cover since the interior pages are in color.
If you go to the website listed in the video, there are several articles on making cover laminated covers including a full tutorial – just no video yet!
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
i wished there was color.
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
It doesn’t leave a mark! I swear!!! I’m not sure why, but I tested first.
I’ll get a cutting mat one of these days, but my wife does not object to the current setup.
Glad you liked the video:)
February 28th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
Hi, possibly i’m being a slightly off topic here, but I was browsing your site and it looks inviting. I’m making a blog and trying to make it look neat, but everytime I touch it I mess something up. Did you design the blog yourself? Could someone with little experience do it, and add updates without messing it up? Anyways, good information on here, very solid.
March 10th, 2010 at 2:10 am