Hi, is it necessary for the pins of the joint to be in the same plane ? What problems will i have if they are not ? I can’t find a joint like yours anywhere…
HI,
I used a single curved tube because I felt it would be simple and rigid, and because I couldn’t quite work out a satisfactory way of joining two tubes. A joint would allow you to fold the stabilizer for carrying or for storage. Also, you would not have the hassle of bending the tube – if it’s aluminium, it’s quite tricky. The Merlin has this arrangement, and that’s a good example to follow. A significant advantage is that the bottom weight moves back as the lower spar swings up.
fantastic explaination… thank you so much. I’ve sorted the handle, and platform, but was wondering if you thought the tube must be curved? I was contemplating using box tube aluminium with a joint at the ‘curve’ allowing me to raise and lower the bottom weight. Any thoughts on that? thanks again for your work. it’ll come in handy here in New Zealand….
Interesting suggestion. I’ll keep my eyes open. We call these ’skipping ropes’ in Britain. I know the term ‘jump ropes’ – I first came across it in a Charlie Brown book. Lucy had a set.
Hey all, this is a great vid for a newbie like me. I wanted to suggest another source for the bearings…. jump ropes. I have many and some of them have bearings in the handles for the leather thong or rope to swing 360 degrees w/o tangling. If you find the right one, it will make an instant handle to assemble the rest of the handle unit to.
I hope this helps cut the cost and/or at least helps someone out there.
I cut the top plate from some old electrical equipment.. The slotted plate under that was cut from a piece of aluminiun strip I found it in the garbage outside a store. I have since taken off the screw end of the torch, and I have a plastic bottle cap to finish it. It’s a little smoother, and the shorter length allows it to sit into the palm of the hand, or I can wrap a couple of fingers around the base. Basically I have just worked with what I could find.
There isn’t anything as grand as plans for this. I made it up as I went along, and I wouldn’t say the design is optimised. There are some details on my website. I am still working on ideas for fine adjustments of balance, without going as far as vernier screw adjustments. The basic form is fairly simple, but the gimbal is a critical element. Meantime, it’s a useful prototype which is capable of modification for experimentation.
The joints I am experimenting with were not designed for this sort of use. The ‘Traxxas’ joint I am now using is more robust, and I feel more confident about it. It’s impotant that the joint has very low friction properties, and no end play. The type of joint you describe would be too coarse, and the pins are often not on the same plane. It’s not easy finding the right joint, and I wish it were otherwise.
You can simply hold a finger against part of the gimbal,. Normally you would want the handle and the rest of the stabilizer to be as independent as possible, so that movements of the hand are not transmitted to the camera.
Yes, a flashlight, or as we say in the UK, a torch. You can get this model on Ebay. Search for “14 LED torch flashlight brand” I originally just happened to have one of these when I was looking around for a handle for the project. Then I was lucky to find that the ball bearing fitted in so well. I have since got one in black, which is much much nicer.
Yes, they should be. The centre of the gimbal will be just a few millimeters above the centre of gravity, so the displacement of any of the pins could have a significant effect on the balance. If they are at different heights (I presume you are referring to tthe horizontal plane) the stabilizer might be too bottom heavy in one plane, and not bottom heavy enough in the other. I had some difficulty finding a good u-joint. Try looking for TRAXXAS joints. They are sold for RC models.
Hi, is it necessary for the pins of the joint to be in the same plane ? What problems will i have if they are not ? I can’t find a joint like yours anywhere…
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
HI,
I used a single curved tube because I felt it would be simple and rigid, and because I couldn’t quite work out a satisfactory way of joining two tubes. A joint would allow you to fold the stabilizer for carrying or for storage. Also, you would not have the hassle of bending the tube – if it’s aluminium, it’s quite tricky. The Merlin has this arrangement, and that’s a good example to follow. A significant advantage is that the bottom weight moves back as the lower spar swings up.
Regards
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
fantastic explaination… thank you so much. I’ve sorted the handle, and platform, but was wondering if you thought the tube must be curved? I was contemplating using box tube aluminium with a joint at the ‘curve’ allowing me to raise and lower the bottom weight. Any thoughts on that? thanks again for your work. it’ll come in handy here in New Zealand….
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
Interesting suggestion. I’ll keep my eyes open. We call these ’skipping ropes’ in Britain. I know the term ‘jump ropes’ – I first came across it in a Charlie Brown book. Lucy had a set.
Regards from Scotland.
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
Hey all, this is a great vid for a newbie like me. I wanted to suggest another source for the bearings…. jump ropes. I have many and some of them have bearings in the handles for the leather thong or rope to swing 360 degrees w/o tangling. If you find the right one, it will make an instant handle to assemble the rest of the handle unit to.
I hope this helps cut the cost and/or at least helps someone out there.
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
Thx !
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
Hello America
I cut the top plate from some old electrical equipment.. The slotted plate under that was cut from a piece of aluminiun strip I found it in the garbage outside a store. I have since taken off the screw end of the torch, and I have a plastic bottle cap to finish it. It’s a little smoother, and the shorter length allows it to sit into the palm of the hand, or I can wrap a couple of fingers around the base. Basically I have just worked with what I could find.
Regards from the UK
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
awesome. maybe a neoprene cover over the flashlight (torch) handle with a flange at the top for easier holding.
Did you machine the mounting plate yourself ?
- Regards from Cleveland!
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
There isn’t anything as grand as plans for this. I made it up as I went along, and I wouldn’t say the design is optimised. There are some details on my website. I am still working on ideas for fine adjustments of balance, without going as far as vernier screw adjustments. The basic form is fairly simple, but the gimbal is a critical element. Meantime, it’s a useful prototype which is capable of modification for experimentation.
Regards from the UK to our friends in the USA.
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
Hey WSCATTER,
Would you be posting your plans on your website anytime soon? And if so when?
Thanks for your incredible innovation.
Best Regards
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
The joints I am experimenting with were not designed for this sort of use. The ‘Traxxas’ joint I am now using is more robust, and I feel more confident about it. It’s impotant that the joint has very low friction properties, and no end play. The type of joint you describe would be too coarse, and the pins are often not on the same plane. It’s not easy finding the right joint, and I wish it were otherwise.
Regards
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
how about using a universal joint found with rachet wrenches. that plastic one looks kinda scary
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
You can simply hold a finger against part of the gimbal,. Normally you would want the handle and the rest of the stabilizer to be as independent as possible, so that movements of the hand are not transmitted to the camera.
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
Is there a way to keep the camera fixed instead of having it spin?
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
Thanks for replying. Even if it is better, this is the coolest handle I’ve seen.
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
Yes, a flashlight, or as we say in the UK, a torch. You can get this model on Ebay. Search for “14 LED torch flashlight brand” I originally just happened to have one of these when I was looking around for a handle for the project. Then I was lucky to find that the ball bearing fitted in so well. I have since got one in black, which is much much nicer.
Regards
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
Im sorry if you mentioned it somewhere in your video but is the gold handle a flashlight? Where did you get it?
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
Yes i want this. Its a nice build and i think you have made it relay well…..please make me one lol
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
when you turn it upside down it looks like a burger flipper!
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
sexy steadicam!
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
is there any way you chould show a video on how to build it?
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
Not for sale….too difficult and time consuming, in its present form, to reproduce.
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
where can we buy this
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
very nice work great job
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
Yes, they should be. The centre of the gimbal will be just a few millimeters above the centre of gravity, so the displacement of any of the pins could have a significant effect on the balance. If they are at different heights (I presume you are referring to tthe horizontal plane) the stabilizer might be too bottom heavy in one plane, and not bottom heavy enough in the other. I had some difficulty finding a good u-joint. Try looking for TRAXXAS joints. They are sold for RC models.
Regards
June 10th, 2009 at 1:22 am
Thanks for the useful info. It’s so interesting
June 11th, 2009 at 1:22 pm