03.05SOLAR PANEL DIY WIRING CONFIGURATIONS SOLAR POWER DIY GET OFF THE GRID 2 PV PHOTOVOLTAIC
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Nice vid. Constructive observation: I did not hear anything regarding charge controllers, which limit the charge as the batteries approach the fully charged state. Also, from past comments, while you could run a cpf light from a mod sine wave inverter, it may hum and annoy you. Just my 2 cents.
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
good info. and with animation or picture we learned more better…pls more video!
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
A solar panel creates electricity from the sun, but a battery does not create electricity, it stores it! Build a bran new battery in a factory and it has no voltage! Only after charging the battery does it have electricity! Thought you might want to know why your wrong! Have a wonderful day! Stay sharp!
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
Excellent video as always. Keep up your positive work!
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
This guy’s awesome.
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
Just a quick semantics observation: batteries and solar panels GENERATE current, they do not USE current. I understood the intention of your comment, but wanted to make sure everyone else did too!
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
at the end you have some morse code.
I got the bc, then, ditdit dahdah, which isn’t a character then ta0wbc0, what’s all that stand for? just curious. Rik
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
thanks again
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
Loving your video on these Harbor Freight systems. I’m going to run some romex thru my crawl space and use this system for some DC lighting. Seems like you can run a few lights all night of one system with a battery. My question is how long does it take to recharge the battery? Is there a formula for figureing run time based on watts or amps used x hours of use? Also I assume more panels equal faster charge? Can I use a bigger panel if they are wired in parrelle?
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
good show, enjoyed it. 5*’s
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
Killawatts work good. Take small steps, section part of your project. See what needs pure sine and what does not. Break your power consumption into 5 areas. Make 1 solar and go from there. That is why I did these videos. You first see what you need then buy accordingly. This prevents you from having an expensive gadget on your roof. I know it can be discouraging. Set a budget. Do what you can. If it works for your need, you can add on. If it does not, you have not wasted a bunch of cash:-)
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
I just checked out some Pure Sine Inverters. They cost a lot more then Modified Sine Inverters. This whole project is beginning to look like it’s going to cost too much. I now think I’m going to need 4 or 5 batteries to make it thru the night. And with 6 to 7 hours of good sunlight a day I’m going to need 6 or 7 of those Harbor freight solar kits to charge these batteries. I guess the first thing I need to do is to get a Kill-A-Watt meter to really see how much power these computers are using.
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
Pure Sine is still recommended.
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
Thanks for all the info! I am using a UPS for each computer system. I have read that you should NOT plug a UPS into another UPS, so I was sure if it was a good idea to plug a UPS into a inverter or not. It’s good to know that I can. Thanks again!
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
For expensive Electronics PURE SINE IS RECOMMENDED. Consider 2 inverters, Cheap one for the cheap stuff and Pure Sine for the good stuff. This will drop your investment cost.
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
Simple Rule – Pure Sine buy 20% more watts than you expect to use.
Modified Sine Inverters buy 2x more than you expect to use especially for power tools. This includes the start load. A 750 watt x 1500 start load Modified will run a 4.8 amp (500 watt) drill poorly. A 1000 Watt x 2000 Watt Modified will run it good.
For lighting, incandescent, you can go right up to the 750 watt on a 750 inverter. CPF 25% over is required.
Pure Sine you get what they say within 10-20% depending on maker.
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
I will have it soon. Re: Inverter. Consider a Pure Sine inverter unless you are going through a UPS battery backup. Pure Sine inverters are 3-4x the cost per watt but would not be required IMO if you have a UPS system to prevent voltage irregularities. Most modified sine inverters are okay for the most part for lights, radios, and small motors and keep a good clean power flow. Several devices need pure sine wave inverters.
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
Waiting for part 3. I’d like to make my computer systems GREEN. 1 system runs 24/7 and the other runs about 12 hours a day. Lets not forget the DSL Modem, router, switchs, printers and monitors. I live in So.Cal. with about 320 sunny days a year. I’m thinking I’m going to need a 2,000watt inverter, at least 2 or 3 deepcycle batteries, and at least 2 of these 45watt solar systems from HarborFreight.
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
I can’t wait to see how you do this, as I plan on doing something like this to my home. Man my electric bill is killing me in the summer.
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
hi Dan , very informant video thanks for all your help and can’t wait to see next video part 3
i learned alot from you
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
pretty cool videos, thanks Dan!
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
Thank you, we were totally missed by the storms, Tampa has been very lucky. After 2004, we built our area stronger and have a 200000 pound storm shelter. We would have been wiped out if Hurricane Charlie would have followed its path but we got missed then too. After that, we have always been ready. (As much as possible).
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
Hope you guys are ok after all those storms that came through your vicinity.
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
I concur with that statement
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
Thank You, I hope it will be ready this week.
March 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm